Chef Giorgia Goggi, a self-proclaimed anchovy lover, marinates her own fillets and sun-dries raisins from local grapes to make this delicate sweet-sour dish. Store-bought marinated anchovies work perfectly well, and when they’re soaked in the dish’s pickling liquid, even grocery-store raisins will take on a juicy plumpness. Photo by Eva Kolenko
Whether they’re the star of a dish or the unexpected secret ingredient, anchovies make a flavorful, briny, savory addition to all kinds of dishes. There are so many different ways to enjoy the little fish: if you can get your hands on fresh anchovies, try deep-frying, marinating, or grilling them; pick up a container of already marinated anchovies, such as Spanish boquerones, for an elegant tapa or salad topping; or sneak the oil-cured fillets into everything from pasta to steak—it’ll have all your guests asking “What did you put in this?”; or if you’re anchovy-shy, start with a tube of anchovy paste and add a bit to salad dressing, pasta, pizza, or soup for an indefinable salty tang. Whichever form of anchovies you choose to work with in the kitchen, it’s the best kind of lily-gilder. Here, our best anchovy recipes that all have that certain je ne sais quoi.
Little Gem Lettuces with Marinated Anchovies and Bottarga. Bottarga, a cured mullet roe available at specialty fish markets and gourmet shops, adds a cheesy-tasting umami to everything it garnishes.
Pissaladière. The layer of onions on a proper pissaladière should be half as thick as the crust. The sweetness contrast nicely with the briny anchovy fillets and niçoise olives on top.
Rumor has it that pasta puttanesca–literally “whore’s pasta”–was a quick
and easy dinner of choice among Neapolitan working ladies, but the
dish’s salacious history is unlikely. Get the recipe for Classic Spaghetti Puttanesca.
Lamb Chops with Mint Salsa Verde
Crab Gratin with Anchovies and Västerbotten Cheese. This Swedish gratin of shredded crabmeat is traditionally made using Västerbotten, a salty aged cows’ milk cheese, but parmesan works well as a substitute.
Grilled Octopus with Chickpeas, Tomatoes and Anchovy Vinaigrette. Tacolicious owner Sara Deseran first discovered this smoky salad, from Neil Fraser of LA’s Redbird, while cooking at the annual Sabores San Miguel festival in Mexico. The trick to getting tender, flavorful octopus is boiling it first, then marinating and grilling it.
Spaghetti with Anchovy Garlic Sauce
Pan Bagnat (Provençal Tuna Sandwich). Packed with tomatoes, local bell peppers, black niçoise olives,
anchovies and tuna, pan bagnat is basically a salade niçoise on crusty
bread.
Salmon Niçoise Salad with Garlic-Herb Dressing
Schnitzel à la Holstein. The crisp-fried veal topped with luscious egg, salty anchovies, and
capers is a brilliant study in contrasting flavors and textures.